Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. Honestly, with an ATC style device, we pretty much always appreciate more lock off and braking power, and so don't really ever see a reason to use the low friction mode. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. However, once someone was hanging on the rope, the XP locked off better and required less hand strength to keep the rope from sliding through. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. All trademarks property of their respective owners Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. Let us know! The Black Diamond ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe People. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Although there are cheaper options available, we believe the added braking power of the XP is worth the added cost. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. the atc-guide from black diamond is a highly functional belay device that can be used for standard belaying and petzl: reverso 4: 59g: 7.5 black diamond atc-xp. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. It's not safe to belay a follower directly off an anchor with this device, and we did not score it for this category. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. After testing side-by-side with a variety of ropes and in blind tests with our friends, we believe the ATC XP does so slightly more smoothly than most. This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? The ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. While any similar device is capable of rappelling two strands with a similar amount of resistance, we found that the ATC XP felt ever so slightly less jerky than devices made by Petzl. The body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC XP (left) are both larger than the Petzl Verso (right). If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and … This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. vote up. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. GearLab is reader-supported. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. £15.00 - £41.38. All trademarks property of their respective owners The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. Points: 11,380 Paul, The ATC-Guide produces substantially more friction than the B-52, especially in … The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. This is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the Petzl Verso. We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. News. The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. 4 years ago. Places. Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. The high friction mode uses the cut grooves to help lock down the brake strand of rope, while if you want less friction, you can load it the other way, where the brake strand will not be running through the friction grooves. Check it out https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. Got feedback? Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. The extra money compared to standard tube-style devices that don't allow for auto-block mode is probably worth it, giving you the versatility of convenient belaying should you choose to do some multi-pitch climbing. How can we improve GearLab? It's light and durable, and the two friction modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The braking ability is also fantastic. The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes. Skills. When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. The difference wasn't large enough to have a significant impact on our scoring. Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Let us know! Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many, we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The best value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Videos. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Gear. GearLab is reader-supported. Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. The ATC XP is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side. Product Description. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. Feeding slack with the ATC XP is nearly identical to other tube-style devices. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The Black Diamond ATC XP is a durable and versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Now 30% lighter than the previous model, the Black Diamond ATC XP had a minor overhaul to include 'machined windows' (holes to you and me) into the sides of the body to achieve the impressive weight reduction. Black Diamond ATC XP-Black, MPN: BD620075BLAKALL1, UPC: 793661287834, Code: 10C-CL2-BLD0442-263373 Black Diamond ATC XP Unavailable & Discontinued Models List of Unorderable Models Got feedback? Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, A simple design suited for building proper belay technique. Size-wise it's also a bit larger, with a longer wire cable and a wider main body. £9.99. How can we improve GearLab? The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. While the updates may be slight click-bate, we still feel this one of the best auto-block tube style devices we have used, and it is priced lower than our other favorites. Photos. The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. Black Diamond Equipment. They both offered the smoothest performance in this review. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners.